Pull up a plastic chair on the leafy pavement outside the Lunch Lady’s stall and order whatever’s on the menu. The noodles on offer rotate by the day of the week, and Anthony Bourdain cemented Nguyen Thi Thanh’s fame when he slurped down her Friday special – rich, porky bun bo Hue – on his show No Reservations. But the Lunch Lady’s fame is well deserved, with every day of the week serving up delicious bites. Go early, because when the broth’s sold out, you’ll have to come back tomorrow.

Under the French occupation in late 19th century, the city became known as the “Pearl of the Orient''. Although much of the city’s grand colonial-era architecture has been destroyed, some impressive sights to see in Ho Chi Minh City still remain. In District 5, you’ll find the Notre-Dame Cathedral and grand Post Office. Modeled on its Parisian namesake with materials shipped over from France, the cathedral towers over the neighbouring dome-roofed Post Office – which still offers mailing services to this day. The pretty pink Tân Dinh Parish Church, City Hall and Opera House are also worth visiting.

Ho Chi Minh City is the nation’s financial capital, and with all that investment comes towers rising above the city. Rising about it all is the 461-metre Landmark 81, Vietnam's tallest building. The observation deck sits right at the very top of the tower, offering a bird’s-eye view of the city. For less lofty but more vibey views, hop between the city’s many open-air rooftop bars for cocktails in the sky – it’s an essential thing to do in Saigon.

The darkest period in Vietnam’s history was between 1955-1975, when the north and south were pitched against each other in an ideological battle that tore the country apart. Find out more at the sobering War Remnants Museum, then head to the cramped Cu Chi Tunnels to experience life in the complex network of warrens used by Viet Cong soldiers during the war.

Hidden behind a jumble of motorbikes on Ly Chinh Thang Street, the unassuming Pho Binh noodle shop doesn’t draw much attention. But this quiet cafe was once the secret headquarters of the Viet Cong in Saigon, the location they planned their raid of the US Embassy during the 1968 Tet Offensive. Come for the little museum upstairs, filled with artifacts of the North’s victory, and stay for steaming bowls of beef noodle soup topped with handfuls of fresh herbs.

In the evenings, Ngyuen Hue comes alive. Stretching from the Saigon river up to the colonial-era City Hall, this wide pedestrianised avenue is a dream for the people-watcher and a top Ho Chi Minh City attraction. As dusk falls locals congregate to hang out, walk their pets, grab snacks from roving vendors and watch buskers and street performers alike. The vibe is easy-going – and without having to watch for the city’s ubiquitous scooters, you’ll be able to soak it all in.

The Jade Emperor Pagoda is a lively shrine filled with the waft of incense, where you’ll be captivated by intricate carvings of gruesome purgatory on the walls. Meanwhile the tranquil grounds of the oldest temple in the city, the Giac Lam Pagoda, are a welcome retreat from the high-octane life outside the walls. About two hours from the city is the Cao Dai Temple, where Buddhism, Christianity, Taoism, Confucianism and Islam are celebrated as one single religion, within vibrant interiors.

Ho Chi Minh City lies at the heart of young, hip Vietnam, and two buildings show that better than most. 42 Nguyen Hue was a one-time apartment block for military officers but now each unit has been taken over by a small, hip business – including a plethora of different coffee shops. Just around the corner, you'll find 42 Ton That Thiep, another converted apartment block that’s been taken over by young fashion designers. They’re both excellent things to do in Saigon.

Markets aren’t just great Ho Chi Minh City attractions – they lie at the centre of Saigon life. Ben Thanh is the most historic, a trading site since the 17th century now covered by a tall vaulted wooden ceiling. At Binh Tay in Chinatown, find 2,300 stalls selling everything from spices to bags and gold. Further south and best visited as part of a day trip, you’ll find Cai Be floating market – where fishermen sell the morning’s catch and farmers hawk fresh fruit and vegetables from wooden sampans.

Less than two hours away from the honking horns of Ho Chi Minh City are the luscious coconut farms of Ben Tre. Take a boat down through the Mekong Delta’s twisting waterways past stilted houses and coconut trees, before heading inland for verdant orchards and rice paddy fields, where the crabs caught in the fields are stewed in clay pots.