In Dhaka concrete tower blocks are thrown up almost as quickly as heritage buildings come down – all in the name of trying to accommodate the city’s population. The non-profit Urban Study Group offers walking tours of Old Dhaka, the most historic and densely populated part of the capital, to raise awareness about Dhaka’s heritage before it disappears. The knowledgeable guides offer insights into the history and architecture, access to areas few tourists can reach, and a chance to meet the people of the city.

The biennial Dhaka Art Summit has put the city on the modern art map, but there are other ways to experience the Bangladeshi art scene. Drik Gallery, the city’s largest privately owned gallery, has showcased Bangladeshi photographers for over 20 years. The godfathers of Bangladeshi modern art, Zainul Abedin and Quamrul Hassan, are championed at the National Art Gallery. Also worthy of a visit is Bengal Shilpalay, a modern gallery with concrete exhibitions rooms.

Glimpse into the past at Old Dhaka, the city’s historic centre. The handsome coral-pink Ahsan Manzil dates back to 1872, built originally as the palace of the city’s wealthiest landowner. It’s now a national museum worth exploring. Elsewhere, the unfinished 17th-century Lalbagh Fort exemplifies Mughal architecture, with a museum full of traditional paintings, calligraphy and relics. The fort also houses the old governor’s residence, a grand tomb, and a three-domed mosque.

American architect Louis Khan was a master of geometry and the interplay of light and shadow: and Dhaka’s National Assembly Building is his magnum opus. The reinforced concrete structure is strikingly modern, while also imbued with nods to traditional Bengali motifs. Visitors are usually welcome from Sunday to Thursday but have to apply in advance.

For a break from the city’s traffic-filled streets, head to the National Botanical Garden of Bangladesh. With some 56,000 different species of flora teeming with life, this 84-hectare sanctuary has been the city’s green lung for more than 60 years. Pay a visit in winter and join the flocks of bird watchers spying the thousands of migratory birds stopping over in the lush grounds.

There are few dishes that capture the rich, spice-laden cuisine of Bangladesh quite like biryani, a fragrant dish of marinated meats, rice, spices, mustard oil and cardamom. Shower your plate with a liberal squeeze of lime juice and tuck in with your right hand. For dessert, the aptly christened outlets of Premium Sweets scattered around the city are popular places for lovers of Bengali sweet treats.

The name of this photogenic narrow lane derives from the Shankhari people: artisans who have lived here for over 300 years. Now primarily home to Bengali Hindis, its artistic roots continue with stalls selling religious items, statues, instruments and more. Make time to see the Hindu temples that pepper the colourful brick buildings. During the annual Durga Puja festival, held in late September/early October, Shankhari Bazaar transforms with vibrant banners, lights and street food stalls.

Sonargaon was once a thriving trade capital for centuries, with the East India Company basing muslin facilities here during British rule and erecting ornate townhouses. Following Partition in 1947, many now lie in ruins - though several restoration projects are underway. Stop by the Bangladesh Folk Arts and Crafts Foundation, founded by renowned Bangladeshi painter Zainul Abedin in a former palace, and see the red-bricked, single-domed Goaldi Mosque, a fine example of 16th century pre-Mughal architecture.

Located in Savar over 35 kilometres northwest of the capital, the National Martys’ Memorial commemorates those who died in the 1971 Bangladesh Liberation War: a bloody conflict which saw the country eventually separate from Pakistan. Entry is free and the grounds are vast, covering 34 hectares, with the monument surrounded by a bucolic green belt and lake. The monument comprises of seven pillars, each symbolising a distinct period in the country’s modern history.