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Kaohsiung’s many night markets are characterised by hearty bites and friendly stallkeepers. If you only visit one, go for the Ruifeng Night Market, whose 1,000-plus stalls will work up your appetite and curiosity alike. Liuhe Night Market is the city’s oldest – here, seafood’s a speciality.

Kaohsiung was once an industrial hub – and a cultural desert. But that’s far from the case these days, with the city transforming its former warehouses into art spaces. The harbourside Pier-2 Art Centre occupies some 20 former warehouses and features massive murals and immersive exhibitions. In Cianjhen district, visit MLD, a hip mall housed inside a former aluminium plant, and KW2, with craft stores, cafes and galleries.

The hilly Hamasen area is home to a wealth of historical sites and preserved military remains – see them at speed on the 79-metre-long Time Tunnel Slide, which zips above the streets and offers a panoramic view over National Sun Yat-sen University, Syongjhen North Gate and more in just 40 seconds.

Kaohsiung has an extensive network of well-designed cycling lanes connecting its major attractions. The Youbike bike system features docking stations all over town, making it easy to explore Kaohsiung. Pedal along the banks of the Love River, passing by the verdant Jhongdou Wetlands Park, the Heart of Love River Bridge, and plenty of places to stop off for refreshments.

Taiwan, China’s most comprehensive cultural centre isn’t located in Taipei, but right here in this port city. The National Kaohsiung Centre for the Arts, aka Weiwuying, contains five full performance spaces, making it the largest arts venue of its kind in the world. The inauguration of the Alien Art Centre in late 2018 further expanded Kaohsiung’s creative portfolio, with experimental projects and contemporary artworks, including James Turrell’s mesmerising ‘Corinth Canal, Diamond’ taking pride of place.

Kaohsiung is known for its bustling night markets and diverse food scene, brimming with tasty local food and street snacks. Stop by the famous Gang Yuan Beef Noodle shop for a flavour-packed bowl, or head to Tai Shan, a longstanding favourite for Shantou-style fish hot pot. Indulge your sweet tooth at the nearly century-old Omiyage, which specialises in taro treats from cream cakes to crepes.

Hundreds of years ago, the harbourside Yancheng District was a thriving salt field. Today, it’s swapped salt for culture, thanks to the rise of sites like the Pier-2 Art Centre and independent labels like 3080s. The latter is a community project and multipurpose initiative to showcase the essence of Kaohsiung old and modern alike, through offering accommodation, guided tours, exhibitions and publications.

The long, narrow Cijin Island runs parallel to the harbour. A five-minute ferry ride will whiz you to tranquil old streets and red brick buildings, historic monuments and modern artsy spots. Grab some grilled squid from a street stall before climbing up to the colonial Cihou lighthouse and the Cihou Fort, for panoramic views of sea, island and city.

It doesn’t take long to get out of the urban bustle and escape to another world. About an hour north of Kaohsiung lies the Wushanding Mud Volcano Nature Reserve, where three mud volcanoes bubble and gush mud into the air. Go a little further and you’ll find the badlands of the Moon World Landscape Park, so named for its lunar-esque landscape.

Kenting National Park sits at the island’s southernmost point, a lush paradise with tropical weather, bright green forests and beautiful beaches. The surfing conditions are consistently good in summer, making August a great time to head to Jialeshui beach, where boards and rooms are both available to rent. The park is easily reached from Kaohsiung by bus or taxi.

From north to south, the island’s many hot spring resorts offer respite from the hectic buzz of the big cities. The Baolai Hot Springs are nestled deep in the forested mountains of rural Kaohsiung, with a wide variety of villas, hotels and spas offering both accommodation and day passes to destress and unwind.